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“Two decades are considered the truly golden time of the New Dawn - the 1950s and 1960s. “Pearls” was created precisely in the mid-1950s.The "Pearl" of the New Dawn was released between 1953 and 1957. In 1958, it was presented at an industrial exhibition in Brussels, where it was included in the group of fragrances awarded the Grand Prix. And in 1961, “Pearls” was included in the diplomatic gift for Jacqueline Kennedy, given to her by Khrushchev at the Vienna Conference.
A spectacular debut - and a long life: “Pearls” were produced until the end of the 1980s, not only by Novaya Zarya, but also by Sverdlovsk and Tbilisi factories. True, only New Dawn poured it into a beautiful bottle, the stopper of which was decorated with glass balls - they symbolized pearls. Miniatures of “Pearls” were included in the “Fantasy” and “Our Brand” sets.
I would call the aroma of “Pearls” genius: imagine that someone moderately perfumed with “Red Moscow” is holding in his hands an armful of freshly picked purple lilacs - this will be the smell of “Pearls”, very elegant and festive. I have never seen another such design of a lilac note in a Soviet perfume, and a similar (but not identical!) presentation of lilac was in the Paris perfume from Coty. Usually in Soviet perfumery of that time, lilac either played solo or was modestly woven into a lush floral bouquet, and in “Pearls” exactly half of the space is allocated to lilac - enough so that you don’t forget about it for a minute, but not enough to recognize “Pearls” as a soliflore.
The Krasnomoskovsky theme is represented in “Pearls” by spices, violet and amber, which are fused with lilac with the help of aldehydes - they give the whole composition a cool sound, but the aroma still warms up towards the base. I think it was the lilac component that ensured “Pearls” its long-term popularity: Soviet women loved lilacs. It is interesting that in 1961 Friedman, in his book “To the Consumer about Perfumery and Cosmetics,” gave advice on mixing perfumes and argued that the combination of “Red Moscow” with “Lilac” is very harmonious - apparently this idea was in the air at that time.
Is there a connection between the scent of "Pearl" and its name? From today, such a connection is not visible: when you hear the word “pearl,” the imagination draws a white floral accord as a symbol of pearlescent whiteness and an aquatic-oyster accord, personifying the marine origin of pearls. But such naturalism was impossible to achieve with perfumes in the middle of the last century, so Novozarevo perfumers started not from the nature of pearls, but from their jewelry image.And this smell is quite associated with an expensive pearl jewelry in a gold frame: the pearl in this perfume is represented by cool aldehydic lilac, gold is represented by spices, vanilla and amber, and violet powder completes the glamorous image. In short, a wonderful holiday gift.
The Pearl Pyramid in general terms:
beginning - a little coolness - jasmine, lilac, tobacco flowers;middle - warmer - cloves, ylang-ylang;base - warm, powdery - iris, amber, vanilla.
Please, check all pictures as they are part of the description!
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